Steel Roof Vent Anyone have personal experience or opinions on power attic venting? I have seen pros and cons on line.?
My attic is about 32'x40'x40"high and I have about a r42 insulation with one down facing gable vent 18" x48".along with six eve vents 4"x16".I have a power vent that can be installed it does have a thermostat and moves 1150cfm it pulls 1,8 amps.I checked today and it's about 130 in the attic and 96 degrees outside. My concern is will it save me any energy to cut a hole in the roof and install it. I know it would make it easier on the a/c but will it use it up with the 1.8 amp draw.Also wonder if that would be enough intake if it was on opposite end from gable vent. Shingle life is not a factor as I have a steel roof.One more thing the ductwork is in the attic and well insulated.I have seen solar powered ones but I already own this one and it is new.Help me out if you can. Appreciate the help is it electric or solar?
I've put one in a past home. 130 degrees will drive your AC costs pretty high. Use the power vent. Might check the box on the unit you're going to buy or bought. You might need two. Anyway...heat rizes...the power vent gets rid of it. Generally, the power vent sensor doesn't kick the unit on until it reads 105. Were it me; I'd use the conventional 110v line for the vent.
For those who would like to get a good idea of the current market value of an RV we recommend the National Automobile Dealers Association web site as an excellent Internet source. Just click on RV Values link and plug in the options the RV is equipped with and they will calculate with a current market value for your recreational vehicle.
Awning Wind Protection: Augment your awning's security from wind damage by adding additional ratcheting straps available from local hardware stores. Canvas securing clamps help in keeping the awning from flapping in heaver winds.
Engine and Drivetrain: Always check the engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid levels, and tire pressures before you head out for a trip. Following the manufacturer's guidelines for oil changes greatly extends the line of your equipment.
Moisture Buildup: Moisture can be a real problem in an RV, particularly during the cold weather when temperatures drop below freezing and moisture inside the RV condenses on surfaces, particularly non-insulated surfaces. This can cause staining and mildew growth. The biggest producer of moisture is the shower in the bathroom and cooking in the kitchen. Our experience has provided the following advice:
Isolate the bathroom by closing pocket doors and opening the roof vent and turning on the vent fan when showering. This consumes a certain amount of heat from of the RV, but seems well worth the added fuel expense in order to lessen the amount of moisture generated by the shower.
Do as little water boiling ( i.e. soup, rice, noodles, vegetables, etc.) in the kitchen as possible. This is the time that the usefulness of the microwave really shines. In cold weather we use the microwave almost exclusively, lessening the use of the stove top for heating water. If you need to boil fluids on the stove top open up the roof vent and a window across the room and suck some fresh dry air through the RV. Again this also removes some interior heat but it is worth getting the moisture out, especially if that moisture starts to freeze and build up on the interior side of your windows and walls! For our second year of full-timing we purchased a small dehumidifier to help keep the condensation down. It does a good job of pulling moisture out of the air and helps combat the moisture buildup.
Norcold Refrigerator: Replace the hex-head screws (10-24) in the freezer compartment of the NORCOLD refrigerator with high-tempered steel screws. We've had problems with ice getting in behind the fender washers and snapping off the heads of the original screws making the removal of the studs very difficult.
Bathroom Sink Maintenance: I've found that the bathroom sink trap needs to be cleaned on a by-monthly basis. When water drainage from the sink starts to slow I know it's time to clean out the trap. It is a straight forward job. Put a catch container under the trap, loosen the threaded pipe nuts and sink stopper connecting rod located on the rear of the down pipe. Clean any buildup from the trap and reinstall in the reverse order making sure that the actuating rod gets put back into the slot in the sink stopper. Re-tighten the plumbing nuts - hand tight is good enough. Unlike the bathroom sink, the shower drain has no stopper, so I use high pressure water spray from the garden hose to blast it clean.
Toilet Seat Adjustment: How to get that toilet seat tight: Reach behind and underneath to loosen up the plastic wing nuts securing the seat to the bowel. When it is loose, slide the securing brackets toward each other. The seat has separate seat and securing brackets that are joined by opposing pins on the securing brackets and holes in the seat and seat-back. The pins fit into the rear of the seat. After you've loosened the brackets, you can then slide them towards each other and, in the process, slide the pins out of the seat/seatback pieces. Once the pins are free of the seat lift off the seat and seat-back. These separate pieces join at the rear. The brackets have hinged plastic covers which hide the securing screws. Flip open these flaps (hinged at the back) to get access to the screw heads. Loosen the screws just to the point of being able to freely move the rear brackets on the bowel, insert the bracket pins into the seat/seatback as a unit by first pushing the brackets toward the center (together) and then apart into the seat/seatback holes. Center the seat on the bowel and hold the plastic wing nuts as you use a screwdriver to tighten down on the screws from the top. You can get some good leverage on the screws to really secure the seat to the bowel. Snap close the screw cover flaps.
Toilet Bowl Seal: If your toilet bowl does not hold water for an extended period of time it means that the seal is not working properly. If you have been using your RV for some time (i.e. two plus years full time), there is probably a build-up of hardened waste deposits on the rubber seal. The repair is surprisingly simple and easy to do. All you need is Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers.
The toilet is comprised of three primary pieces: the bowl and seat, the pedestal with water flush valve, and two wide rubber/synthetic gaskets mounted between them. If the seal has been damaged it will need to be replaced. This is unlikely however. All that is needed is a good gasket cleaning to remove the crusted waste deposits on the seals. Though not a pleasant job, it can be easily taken care of: • Turn OFF the toilet water supply. • Remove the plastic skirt around the pedestal accessible from the rear using the flat blade screwdriver. • Loosen the wide stainless steel clamp that captures the "C" rings which secure the bowl to the pedestal • Lift off the toilet bowl and put it off to the side. Depending on the length of water hose that runs between the water valve at the foot pedal, you may need to loosed the hose clamp securing the water supply to the bowl. • Separate the two wide gaskets that located between the bowl and pedestal and clean. Be careful not to damage the gaskets when cleaning. I found the edge of the screwdriver blade was sufficiently sharp to break and remove the crusted residue which has been causing water seepage past the seal. Clean the gaskets thoroughly. • Clean the throw valve which the pedal operates during the "flush" cycle. • Clean the water intake ports on the pedestal if there is any hard water build-up. • Clean the pedestal top and bottom of the bowl mating surfaces. • Reinstall all items in the reverse order aligning seals and bowl with the post "key" on the pedestal, making sure that the hole in the gaskets align with the water supply port in the pedestal. Do not overtighten the stainless steel clamp as it will hinder the proper return of the closing foot valve. Time to completion: about half an hour.
Water Filters: Water is very important to each and every one of us. We've found that some parks have less than acceptable water standards, particularly if you are planning to use it for drinking or food preparation. We recommends for those applications you use a reputable water filter for all shore connections. You can purchase these filters at RV parts stores, mail order catalogues, and most hardware stores.
Winter Storage: When storing your RV for the winter, • Unplug ALL appliances and disconnect all batteries. Some appliances draw electricity even when turned "off". • Disconnect the ice maker water feed lines and drain. • Drain the hot water heater and flush (see separate item below). • After draining all water out of the fresh water system it's best to feed nontoxic RV antifreeze through the entire water system. I've found this can be accomplished with the use of a 'pressure pot' connected to the fresh water hookup, opening every tap until the antifreeze starts to flow. A cup of antifreeze in the sink and shower traps should finish the job. Remove any canned goods which might burst if frozen. Don't forget to check the antifreeze in the engine cooling system.
To protect your RV from ice or water damage many people use a tarp as a cover. You can use protective caps of cut up tennis balls, Styrofoam balls or similar material to prevent tarp damage from abrasion on sharp edges of the RV.
Cleaning the Hot Water Heater: To extend the life of the hot water heater it's a good practice to flush out the heater tank every season. It's a simple process. Shut off the hot water heater and allow water in the tank to cool or run the hot water tap until it cools. Turn off the water supply to the coach and release the water pressure by opening up the "hot" faucets. Remove the access panel from the exterior of the RV and remove the hex headed plastic drain plug. Water will flow out the drain. If necessary, use a coat hanger to break up any sediment which may be blocking the opening. Direct high water pressure from a garden hose into the drain hole, swiveling from side to side to stir up the sediment in the tank. Remove the hose and let the tank drain. Repeat this filling and draining process with the garden hose until the water flushing from the tank is clean. Reinstall the drain plug, turn on the water supply and close the "hot" water taps when water has filled the tank and begins to flow from the taps.
A Must Read - Recommended by Arnold Donszelmann of Leisure RV in Millet Alberta
Roof Vent Cover If a roof ridge vent is covered with shingles, how can that much airflow escape the attic?
shouldn't you be able to "see" from the ground the vent part of ridge vent on top of the roof?
Shingles do cover the plastic ridge vents and they do allow air to escape.Go to Home Depot or Lowe's or whomever carries roofing material in your area to see how a ridge vent is constructed. Installed properly they can be quite effective especially when all many homes have is a 8x10 inch vent in each end of a gabled roof. Personally, I like the 10" 'pot' style vents along the ridge every four or five feet, they release a lot more air. No matter which kind of vent you have at the ridge you'll need just as much open space along the bottom of the roof to let fresh air in. A good sized attic fan can also be a boost to good air circulation. One problem that I know of with the plastic ridge vent is if the sheathing is not cut away in order for the vent to work at all. If you have access to see the ridge beam from your attic you would be able to see this.
What does it cost in BC to remove 2 layers of shingles, put on a new roof with ridge vents, 3,000 sq. ft.?
We would like the new fibreglass shingles, the ridged ridge vent not the roll up stuff. We have to cover about 3,000 sq. ft., add 2 vents on the garage, and a a vent to the house. We would like to know if it is in our budget before looking around. I already got a quote on just the shingles, paper, and ridge vent. It will cost me $3000 for just the materials. So how much will it cost to have the whole job done including removal of old tiles.
