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Copper Battery power
Battery trouble with a 97 Chrysler Concorde LXI...Help me!?
Hey!
I have a 97 Chrysler Concorde LXI and 2-3 days ago the battery light came on. Before I had a chance to get it looked at, the whole car died. (power steering, CD player, the whole deal). I replaced the battery with a brand new one, but while I was putting the new one in, one of the two wires disconnected from the clamp that attaches the battery to the black cable (as opposed to the red). It exposed about an inch of copper wiring, but I was able to re-attach it by loosening and re-tightening a bolt on the clamp around it. The car started up again and worked fine to get me into work this morning, but the battery light stayed on. Should I be worried? Should I let it be or take it to a professional? I'm kind of clueless with cars, outside of the basics, so if you could help me out in lay men's terms it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!
well yes light on means its not charging most of the time so even thro you put on a new battery when you should have check to see what is was could have been dirty battery cablescould have been bad belt could been battery could be alternator best you just stop any shop or parts store and ask would you check my charging system most of the time its free only takes 5 minutes
Make Copper Sulfate from Copper and Sulfuric acid (3 ways)
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Wiring a 1500 watt amp. The power cord only gets 5.7 volts but the battery is putting 13.8 volts?
Wiring a 1500 watt amp. The power cord only gets 5.7 volts but the battery is putting 13.8 volts , the power cord is 4 gauge 250 strand copper wire. Please help im baffeled , the volts randomly spike to 12.5 max but that is rare and only allows the amp to turn on for a few seconds. thanks in advance
replace the main power wire...
look at it closely, if it is stranded wire, then some of the strands are broken inside the insulation...
with a volt meter on the amp end of the wire.. ground the black lead from the meter to the chassis ground of the car, and with the red lead from the meter, connected to the amp end of the power lead...
turn the power on, and check your connections starting at the far end, closest to the battery... tighten everything one at a time,and flex the wire as you go... the meter will fluctuate as the connection inside the insulation is made and broken... when you get to the bad spot, you'll know it by the reading on the meter...
If you make it all the way from end to end, and the problem is still there, then check your ground connections...
when you find the problem repair the connection or replace the run of wire...
What is happening is that in a stranded conductor, flexing causes the individual strands to break, increasing resistance, and causing voltage drop. By flexing the wire, you are making and breaking the connection, and your voltage will go up and down as the connection resistance changes...
if you want to double check your work, turn off the power, disconnect both ends of the wire, and connect the black lead to one end of the power lead, and the red lead from the meter to the amp end of the same wire..
with the meter set to resistance, flex the wire as you go from end to end... when you find the bad spot the resistance will drop to almost zero ohms, meaning you have a dead short, which is what you want when you are testing one long piece of wire between each test lead from the meter...
hope this helps,
Matt
