Rv Generator No

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Rv Generator No
Rv Generator No
How do you travel with pets, as in RV'ing in a conversion van?


Concerns are leaving pet in car. No generator for air conditioning or heater.
I'm thinking more on what can I do with my pet if I am traveling and I would like to go to a tourist attraction ... like a museum or zoo or something for a few hours? Conversion vans aren't large enough for a generator like a massive RV is. I'd like to travel with my dog, but I'd like to see more than just the scenery. If it is too warm or too cold to leave the dog, I could keep the van running, but by doing that, I leave the chance of having it stolen.

No AC and No heat???? Don't! Flat out, just don't.

Airstream RV Blog #29 - A Great "No Hookup" Campground

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Beating Winter Temperatures In An Enclosed Rv Carport

The versatility and affordability of enclosed RV cover / carports has expanded their uses beyond just sheltering vehicles to functioning as home offices, work spaces, and/or play areas. As these uses become more integral in work and family life, having the area in which these activities take place get shut down due to cold temperatures becomes less and less of an option. As carport designs continue to evolve, making them more like room additions than bare bones shelters, a variety of heating options has also developed.

The two primary options for heating these living spaces are electrical or gas generated heat. Getting the right sized heating unit for the space being used is critical to make sure that enough heat gets generated without spending too much on a unit that is bigger than it needs to be. The following are approximations for the heater output required to warm the square footage of a living/working space:

* 250 square feet – 24,000 BTU's (British Thermal Units)
* 350 square feet – 36,000 BTU's
* 550 square feet – 48,000 BTU's

After getting the right sized heating unit, the next decision will be how best to heat the designated area. Depending on whether heating must be spread throughout the area or targeted to a specific area will determine the proper type of heater. For heating wide areas, going with a convection heater is usually the best choice. An example where a convection style heater would be best is an area where people might be dispersed or moving around such as a play area or for a business with work areas which are spread out over the square footage of the structure. A less expensive option, such as a radiant or infra-red heater, would work if the area to be heated can be targeted to a specific area, such as a work desk. Money can also be saved by insulating the structure and adding weather stripping to doors and windows.

As more RV carports are being wired for electrical output, hooking up regulation heaters has become a common practice. For areas that don't experience freezing temperatures, space heaters can also provide enough heat from a 120 volt outlet but care must always be taken to keep the heaters upright and away from all kinds of flammable materials. A "tip-over" feature automatically turns the heater off or emits a beeping sound should the unit be upended.  

Gas heaters can generate heat from both fixed and portable sources. Natural gas and liquid petroleum supply heaters from fixed piping systems while propane and kerosene are carried in storage tanks. With any gas based heating system it is extremely important to ventilate the heated area as well as placing carbon monoxide sensors around the interior of the structure to alert occupants of any kind of buildup of the noxious gas. Of the four gas sources, kerosene carries a consistently strong odor making it probably the least desirable source of heat, especially in an enclosed or poorly ventilated structure.

About the Author

RV Carports Direct is one of the largest distributors of quality steel buildings, RV Covers and carports and metal garages in the continental United States. For more information visit: RV Cover For Sale

1 Comment

  1. snutr
    Posted February 26, 2011 at 1:14 pm | Permalink

    OK. That puts it more into perspective. Just remember that Airstream trailers, although wicked pissa cool, have price tags that take into account the “cool factor”. Also, if you want to maintain the resale value of the Airstream you’ll have to repair it with pricey parts — even more so if it is a vintage Airstream. For $5K, you could get a nice setup that has a generator, heater etc. to the point of being a small mobile home. If something breaks, then the repairs will be less costly and you won’t be dipping into your savings. Think about it, just a [decent RV alone can cost you $2,500. Another option is to get a [yurt A 16ft/200sq ft Buffalo Mountain yurt would run you $3,500. The remaining $1,500 could be spent on putting in a nice small wood stove and other amenities. It sounds like wood would be free where you’ll be staying. Just looking at some of the kits from the different companies — it sounds like they have flexible options — you can pick up insulation where you are and make it quite cozy. Also there is less infrastructure to repair (the repairs would be easy and less costly — fabric and wood). It would cost you considerably less ($1,500 or even less) if you just bought plans and built it yourself. Just throwing out other options for you. The only reason I mention the yurt thing is that I met a guy who built one from plans and it’s really quite cozy yet offers flexible living space so you can have room to breathe. Your dog will probably also appreciate the extra room to move around versus being always underfoot in the aisle of the airstream. What sold me was the ability to have a tiny wood stove that heats the whole thing (almost *too* well — it was like a friggin’ sauna in there). He had an outhouse (which you could substitute with a composting toilet — though they are very pricey) and his “kitchen” was a [propane powered camping He had a real sink and the water was stored overhead in a large container (gravity feed) and the gray water was shunted into a dry well under neath the yurt. I’m sure a simple gravity shower system could work the same way (use a solar camping shower or something). The yurt was built on a raised platform to allow for firewood storage underneath. Lights were kerosene lamps and candles with light from the wood stove too. Electricity was powered by a [diesel Anyway, yes, your plan as described could work with some creative effort on your part, but I believe that there are other more efficient, effective and cost effective options than the airstream although less mobile. Let us all know how it turns out. Sounds exciting and interesting.